Burgos is a brilliant city with a massive museum and an elaborate cathedral.
The Museum of Human Evolution
We didn’t have time to visit the Museum of Human of Evolution but we did stand in front of it.
Here’s a sculpture just outside it.
We heard that the museum’s great. It’s got lots of archaeological finds from nearby Atapuerca.
We did manage to visit Burgos cathedral but we were a bit intimidated by all the gold leaf and rich mahogany.
There were a lot of things like this:
But our favourite thing was probably this:
Burgos is the start of the Meseta stretch of the Camino.
The Meseta is a plateau in the north of Spain which is high up (between 500 and 900 metres) and flat.
The Camino goes through the northern Meseta, above the Sistema Central range of mountains.
If you turn ‘terrain’ on on Google Maps, you should get a good idea of it:
We were told the Meseta was one of the worst bits of the Camino but we’ve enjoyed walking through it.
Close to the clouds
Being at a high altitude means we often saw clouds so close to the ground we almost mistook them for mist.
Here are some pics from one early morning.
Dry and flat
The bits of the Meseta we’ve seen have mainly been dry and flat farmland. Most of the time, all we saw for miles around were fields and sky. That meant the landscape often looked pretty abstract.
Sometimes the path climbed up to a higher plateau but it was easy to forget there was anything much below us.
It was only when the path came close to the edge that things popped into view. Approaching Hontillas, we saw nothing for a while, then the town suddenly appeared below us:
A few days into walking through the Meseta, we arrived in Moratinos. Coming into town, we saw a small hill with lots of doorways built into its sides.
Each doorway led to a small cave. The caves were made by locals for storing various things including ‘enough wine to meet people’s needs’.
A few have caved in (sorry) but most were OK and still being used.
A few days ago, we got to the town of Sahagún, which is the ‘geographical halfway point’ of the Camino. We think that means halfway as the crow flies rather than kilometres walked.
It’s marked by a kind of arch, just outside town.
We had some wine as we passed halfway with our friend Sheila.
We also went to the Santuario de la Peregrina, a church in the south of Sahagún, to get an official certificate to prove we made it.
Here’s Tom’s one.
We think that’s a dragon at the top. We’re not sure why it’s there but we like it.